Tongariro Alpine Crossing. New Zealand volcanic edge. 🇳🇿

A lone ice axe stands amidst the snow-covered terrain of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, showcasing the dramatic and rugged landscape that Matt Phillips is navigating.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, located in New Zealand’s Tongariro National Park, and is widely regarded as one of the world’s best one-day hikes. I have been lucky to work as a guide in this stunning and unpredictably active volcanic range. 

Spanning 20 kilometers, the trek takes around 7 to 8 hours to complete. Hikers traverse through dramatic volcanic landscapes, including craters, ancient lava flows, active geothermal areas, steaming vents, and the vibrant Emerald Lakes. 

Mt Ngauruhoe stands majestically in the background, with ancient lava flows creating a rugged foreground landscape.

The crossing starts in the glacial carved Mangatepopo valley where you are surrounded by steep sides and lateral moraines. Through the valley you have to climb over ancient lava flows and some more recent ones from the 1975 eruption. After passing soda springs you start ascending steeply upwards along the base of Mount Ngauruhoe, famously used as Mount Doom in The Lord of the Rings film trilogy. Mt Ngauruhoe is still an active volcano and can usually be seen gently steaming and venting. As you ascend your environment changes and becomes more lunar, the alpine plants and shrubs give way to rocks and hardy lichen. The trail plateaus off as you enter South Crater, a flat expanse between the peaks of Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. After your reprieve of the flat section you are back to climbing a stunning but wild and narrow ridge up to the highest point at the Red Crater, which stands at 1,886 meters above sea level. This ridge can be treacherous in both summer and winter conditions and is the turn round point for many climbers. Red Crater is still very active the smell of sulphur is always strong in this area; there will be regular plumes of steam creeping up from the crater. Now you start the decent, this can be as tricky as the way up, deep gravely ashy from previous eruptions make the ridge a slog to walk hike. The reward for the sandy trudge is a close up of the emerald lakes. These 3 beautiful lakes are correctly named, they glow a beautiful colour in the sun. Water filled the the creators formed by an explosive eruption from the red crater, then a mixture of mineral run off from the peaks and sulphur leaking from the earth's crust has turned the water into a beautiful emerald colour. The lakes look inviting in summer but they have a very high PH level and will cause blistering, rashes and peeling of your skin.

The Central crater is shaped by volcanic activity but was originally caused by glacial action. After crossing the central crater you will once again ascend to another ridge where you will see the blue lake. Like its name suggests the water is a brilliant blue. The crater the lake sits in is approximately 20000 years old and 16m deep. From here the trail is a sweeping descent from the rocky alpine environment, On the way down you will pass the Te Maari Craters, these smoking craters last exploded in 2012, throwing 3 ton boulders approximately 2.4km. From here you will walk through the foot hills and eventually ending in the tempered rainforest and the end. 

The area holds deep cultural significance to the Māori people. According to legend, the mountains of Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe are considered sacred ancestors, and the area holds deep spiritual significance. The mountains were once warrior gods who fought over the beautiful maiden Pihanga, with Tongariro emerging victorious.

This trek is a wonderful undertaking in both summer and winter, it is an official trail with markers and easy to read maps available, but I have had to turn people back in even the nicest of conditions. Many people overestimate their own abilities and underestimate the terrain. People do die on this trail. They fall off the ridges, become hypothermic, and some have suffered heart attacks trying to push themselves up. Even simple slips and trips can mean a major rescue operation in this tough, remote, alpine environment.  

In winter, the crossing becomes a very different beast, it is a much more challenging alpine experience, the trail is often covered in snow and ice, with sub-zero temperatures, high winds, and limited visibility. Full white outs happen quickly and people become very disorientated. We supply clients with crampons and ice axes and knowledge on how to use them. Traversing the ridges becomes a slow game in winter, we have to cut steps and dig out foot holds to keep clients safe whilst juggling the wind chill of people waiting. Some areas are prone to avalanches and they need to be inspected and snow cleared to make safe passage. We will always carry a PLB (personal locator beacon) ice axe, shovel and wilderness first aid kit. 

As long as you are aware of the dangers of winter the otherworldly beauty is astonishing, nothing beats the volcanic landscape when it has its winter coat on. 

The area holds deep cultural significance to the Māori people. According to legend, the mountains of Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe are considered sacred ancestors, and the area holds deep spiritual significance. The mountains were once warrior gods who fought over the beautiful maiden Pihanga, with Tongariro emerging victorious.